Brunswick Heads

Arriving in Brunswick Heads felt like coming home… If home were 40+ degrees Celsius and sharks swam around just beyond the river mouth and poisonous spiders lived in houses and ten-foot snakes ate chickens.

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Brunswick Heads is a small hippie town in northern New South Wales, with a two-block centre of cafes, restaurants, hotels and thrift stores. Apparently it’s like Byron Bay was, 20 years ago (minus the annoying 90 minutes of traffic to get around the roundabout that is the only entrance to the town). If you go there, please eat pancakes and chicken salad (not necessarily at the same sitting, but I don’t judge) at Footbridge and have homemade pasta and a croissant at Park Street Homemade Pasta Bar. Picnickers should swing by Brunswick Heads Health Foods for takeaway vegan coconut raspberry tarts, which are delicious and don’t taste remotely vegan.

Before Bruns I was the girl that meticulously checked her clothes and towels for spiders before letting them near her body. The girl that would only walk the seawall with a cellphone in hand, in case a snake slithered across the path and bit her and she needed to call the hospital. In Bruns I was the girl running barefoot through tall grass to ride a horse, bareback in shorts with no shoes and no helmet.

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The cows were totally impressed.

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